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The year-round 72-degree water temp is like a rich man's thermostat: set thrillingly chilly on a hot day, toasty warm in sweater weather.

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¤ Through the years, Romania has stood in the crosshairs of multiple empires (Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, German, and Soviet) and experienced a level of turmoil a pampered American like myself can hardly imagine. We’re not in the territory of bored people out in the suburbs wondering where their lives went.Following our sternly beautiful guide through the soulless complex, built overtop one of the capital city’s once-vibrant historic neighborhoods, feels like wandering through a less than benign dream. Not just to this “horrible building,” but to Bucharest in the first place?“If you have any questions,” the guide proposes, “ask them now.” I am full of questions, if not the kind she means. I wanted to see the country where my mother was born.Elfstones are an old magic, going all the way back to the Age of Faerie.They were mined by Trolls and given to the Elves to be made over into talismans.

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